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Red wine review – 2012 Kaesler Stonehorse GMS

Flavoursome but surprisingly graceful/subtle – and remarkably underpriced – this may change your preconceptions about Barossa Valley reds, especially about Barossa Grenache.

The Barossa is often revered or reviled for its “fistful of flavour, sometimes alcohol-hot” reds.

Many Australians ardently love Barossa Shiraz, but shy away from Barossa Grenache; they regard the latter as a “rubbish” grape and harbour unfond memories of fat and flabby Grenache wines that tasted like overcooked fruits or burnt jam.

The 2012 Stonehorse GMS  is 80% old vine Grenache, aka garnacha or cannonau.  None of it burnt or flabby, this Grenache is more “poorer man’s Pinot”.

There is 17% old vine Mouvedre (aka mataro or monastrell) and 3% Shiraz.

The end result is a perfectly balanced combination of fragrance, berry and savoury flavours; tannins and (old) oak are crucial but discreet presences.

“Barossa monsters” are oft instantly gratifying, but “love at first lipsmack” is all too often over before bottle’s end – what initially entices soon proves cloying and heavy.

No such problem here; as you make your way through a bottle of this less-monstrous Barossa red your delight will only deepen; it is an ideal partner to slow-cooked dishes.

Australian recommended retail price is $22.

Direct from Kaesler you could pay $19.

It would be good value at twice the price.

Published in other wines Wine

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