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Category: photographs

“Old city”, Lahore (#22 in series: different drum, with musical bonus)

 

 

In the “western” world most drums are made from metal, wood and “skin” (although that “skin” is now usually synthetic) and they are usually played with sticks, mallets, or brushes.

In Asia and Africa, however, many drummers hold no stick or mallet, and their instrument is a clay pot or a vegetable gourd.

Doubtless, some “westerners” imagine that music played by a hand drummer on a clay pot is necessarily simple, crude, “unrefined”.

That assumption is dead wrong…as is strikingly illustrated by this post’s “musical bonus”.

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“Old city”, Lahore (#21 in series: geometry and cheek)

 

 

The Shahi Hammam’s smaller rooms’ decorative frescoes – as illustrated in this post’s featured image – are geometric/“abstract” and very “spare”.

They are no less beautiful than the big rooms’ much more elaborate and oft-“representational” frescoes.

Contrary to widespread belief, Islam does not impose a blanket ban on “representational” visual art in general, nor on the depiction of humans, specifically.

For instance, “Persian miniature” – one of the best-loved, most influential forms of visual art – was fostered by Muslim rulers; a key feature of the genre is its depiction of (non -sainted) human beings.

That said, what you can see below is something that would never have been approved.

It is a cheeky, “improper” bit of egocentricity on the part of one anonymous artist/artisan.

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“Old city”, Lahore (#20 in series: Shahi Hammam’s “cold room”)

 

 

My photo shows the grandest of this monumental bathhouse’s 21 rooms.

The “cold room” was the “entry statement” – the place where public “occasions” and gatherings could occur, separate from the actual baths, their steam, their heat and their need for “privacy”.

Westerners tend to call any such building a “Turkish Bath”.

Turkey, however, never had a monopoly on public hot baths. (nor did Asia. For example, the English city of Bath is so-named after the public baths constructed by its Roman conquerors)

As tended to be true of Mughal Empire structures on the Indian subcontinent, this building’s aesthetics are somewhat eclectic, but the predominant “accent” of the Shahi Hammam  is “Persian”…definitely not “Turkish”.

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“Old city, Lahore” (#18 in series: Wazir Khan mosque’s frescoes)

 

 

No photograph can do them justice.

(and “serious” attempts to do so would require equipment that very few people possess)

However, the frescoes which adorn this mosque’s domes are guaranteed to amaze and delight almost anyone who looks up at them.

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“Old city”, Lahore (#17 in series: one niche, Wazir Khan mosque + musical bonus)

 

The featured image is a wide-angle (24 mm) shot of one of several such niches in Wazir Khan mosque’s prayer hall; each sits under one of its domes.

They are exquisitely and elaborately decorated, as is even more evident in the closer views, below.

The musical bonus takes us back to a time when US governments would send on tour to a predominantly Muslim nation some of the greatest American musicians…and then – upon their return to the USA – broadcast to a nationwide television audience those musicians’ admiring response to Islamic art and architecture.

(not coincidentally, the style of the decorative art that you are now looking at is, essentially, “Persian”)

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“Old city”, Lahore (#16 in series: details of Wazir Khan’s courtyard + wide view of prayer hall)

 

 

The courtyard is flanked on four sides by 32 khanas, or small study cloisters for religious scholars.

Above quotation is from the Wikipedia entry;  it tells the history of Wazir Khan mosque’s 17th century CE construction, its deterioration through the 19th & 20th centuries, and its (ongoing) 21st century restoration. It includes many photos.

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“Old city”, Lahore (#14 in series: in Wazir Khan mosque’s courtyard)

 

Once one is through the main gate, separated from the streets outside – and in the courtyard, gazing across to the mosque-proper – a first-time visitor can appreciate Wazir Khan mosque’s elegance and beauty.

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“Old city”, Lahore (#13 in series: entering Wazir Khan mosque)

 

Efforts to restore and preserve Wazir Khan mosque have been ongoing since 2009; the “expected completion date” continues to move further into the future.

Its 17th century CE construction was a much speedier affair; building commenced in 1634 and was completed in 1641.

It is the subcontinent’s most elaborately decorated Mughal era mosque.

The facade and external gate pictured above are certainly “impressive”, but they are definitely not this particular mosque’s most impressive feature, nor its most beautiful/elegant, nor its best-preserved/restored.

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“Old city”, Lahore (#12 in series: daily life)

 

 

Perchance you are wondering why the featured image’s little girl in the white dress looks familiar…we had encountered her one hour earlier, in a courtyard.

There, she had danced – not as a “performance” – but spontaneously, as pictured in this series’ chapter #4.

Lahore is one of the world’s hottest and most polluted cities.

However, on the morning of 12 May 2024 the air was surprisingly “fresh”,  temperature atypically moderate, and there were puddles in streets.

These were all thanks to the violent storm that had suddenly thundered in, overnight.

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